VIPER GECKO (Teratolepis fasciata)
This Care Sheet written by Barry Schneider for ACME CRITTERS
~ all rights reserved ~
GENERAL~
The Viper gecko is a hardy terrestrial species native to Pakistan that originates from the arid southeastern region of the country. This gecko gets its common name from venomous snakes (Viperidae) due to its tail shape being similar to the head of a viper. The tail is an efficient water storage system for the Viper gecko and actually changes shape and fullness depending on the amount of water being stored. The base color of Viper geckos is usually tan or gray with overlaying darker stripes and white bands or spots. Some individuals sport more of an olive/khaki coloring. Patterning varies among individuals from very precise and symmetrical to broken variegation. Likewise, overall contrast between the base color and patterning can vary from low/flat to high/contrast. In general there are no “recognized” color phases for this gecko. However, shade phases are often referred to as light, medium (normal) and dark. The eyes of the adult Viper gecko are a very intense metallic gold that are lidless and require regular cleaning with the geckos tongue. Most Vipers reach an adult length of 3-1/2 to 4 inches as an adult. Viper geckos do not exhibit the “flighty” nature of many small lizards. They actually seem to enjoy being handled gently and therefore can make wonderful pets for children. Kept as an individual or in a group, they are very entertaining to watch as they exhibit a lot of personality in their roaming, hunting, and interaction with each other. The accepted life expectancy for these geckos is 7+ years.
HOUSING~
Viper geckos have proven to be one of the easiest/least demanding species to keep in captivity. They require little space so a plastic shoebox for a single gecko is adequate. Larger enclosures help ensure the animals health and happiness when pairs, trios, or more are kept together. In general, males should be kept singly or with 1 to 5 females as a colony. Aggression among adult males is common and very stressful for all in the colony. Being nocturnal, Viper geckos do require several hiding places on both the cool and warm side of their environments. A substrate of sterilized play sand works just fine for juvenile to adult Vipers. Hatchlings and babies are best kept on paper toweling. Some landscaping helps to give the geckos an enriched environment for exploration and hunting. Several rough sided rocks or cholla pieces are wonderful additions as they give the gecko a place to rub against when shedding. Being from the arid desert region, Viper geckos do not require high humidity. They also do not have the pads on their toes that many geckos do, so they can’t climb glass. Therefore, no top is necessary on their enclosure. A daily misting of one end of their enclosure is all that is needed to meet their water requirements, and they will lick the water droplets off the enclosure’s walls. Another option is a small bowl with pebbles in it that is refilled every couple days. Viper geckos won’t “drink” out of the bowl, but will lick moisture off the rocks. Spot cleaning should be done daily and is especially easy as most Vipers develop a favorite spot in their cage to defecate. If a water bowl with stones is used, it should be cleaned and rinsed every 1-2 days.
HEATING & LIGHTING~
Perhaps the most important requirement for keeping Viper geckos is providing a temperature gradient. This is easiest to attain with an under tank heat pad on one end of the enclosure. The temperature on the warm side should be 85-90 degrees with an ambient temperature of about 78-80 degrees and the cool side being room temperature. An additional heat source can be provided on the warm side during the day by using a low wattage red light. This light can be turned off at night to facilitate a temperature drop along with normally falling room temperature. It is not necessary to turn off the UTH. However, many keepers recommend turning off the UTH and observation/basking light from December through January to simulate the gecko’s natural cool down period. Being nocturnal, Viper geckos do not require any UV lighting. They are most active at dusk and through the evening, so a red bulb is often nice to have for observation purposes after “lights out” as they don’t register the red light and are more active. After "observation time” the red light should be turned off for the evening. A standard timer unit is a nice addition to automate shut off.
FEEDING~
Viper geckos are insectivores and gut loaded, calcium dusted crickets should make up the bulk of their diet. Adults should be fed several crickets daily (3 week old, 3/8” to ½” size). Evening feeding of adults is recommended as they are most active and prefer to hunt at night. Babies should be fed fruit flies or crickets (pinhead to 1/8”) several times daily. They do LOVE waxworms, but these should be fed sparingly due to their high fat content…primarily as treats once a week or as a boost to females after they have laid a clutch of eggs. Many will eat mealworms, but care should be taken that any mealworms offered are small in size. These should also be fed sparingly due to their harder to digest exoskeleton. Recommended supplements are: Rep-Cal with D3, Rep-Cal Herptivite, and Miner-All.
BREEDING~
Viper geckos can be quite prolific if kept in a healthy environment and fed properly. It is fairly easy to sex adult Vipers as the males have fairly prominent hemipenal bulges at the base of their tails. Females lack these bulges, but if they are overweight can develop what appears to be hemipenal bulges, but these are actually fat deposits. It is rather difficult to predict the sex on hatchlings and juveniles with certainty due to their small size. Males also tend to be smaller in overall size than females. In general, males can be bred at a younger age (10-12 months). Whereas females should be older (15-18 months) and in optimal condition. Many believe that a winter cool down period is required to aid in the breeding process. At the very least, females should be separated from males for several months to allow them to rest and rejuvenate. Each female can lay a clutch of 1-2 eggs every 1-2 weeks when in a breeding period. This high rate of egg production can be very demanding on their calcium reserves, so in addition to dusting their food with calcium supplement, many keepers also keep a bowl of calcium powder available in the enclosure. The females will actually lap up the powdered supplement from time to time as their bodies need it. The eggs will usually be buried in the sand in the middle zone or cool zone of their enclosure. The eggs should be dug up as soon as they have dried and hardened a bit and placed in a controllable incubator. The eggs should be incubated at roughly 82-84 degrees and 50-60 percent humidity on dry sand. Hatching can take place from 40 to 70 days after being laid. There is no evidence supporting sex of the hatchlings being related to incubation temperatures for Viper geckos. |
PICTUS GECKO (Paroedura pictus)
This Care Sheet written by Barry Schneider for ACME CRITTERS
~ all rights reserved ~
GENERAL~
The Pictus gecko, also known as the Madagascar Ground, Big Head or Panther gecko, is a hardy terrestrial species native to the island of Madagascar off the southeastern coast of Africa. Their color and patterns can vary greatly. Generally, the colors vary from reddish-brown to yellow, or dark brown with black and white speckling. As more and more generations of Pictus are bred in captivity, many different color and pattern mutations have appeared. There are two very common pattern variations most readily available -- striped and banded. Striped animals will have a white line running down the center of their back, while the banded forms will be banded from side to side. Due to selective breeding, other variants have begun to show up with regularity. Perhaps the most beautiful of these is the Three-striped variant. There are also now marbled, "jungle", and wide-striped variants being bred in increasing numbers. Additionally, several attractive color morphs are beginning to appear. These include: Anerythristic, Hypomelanisitc, Red Hypo, Red, Orange and High-yellow. These different colors can be combined with any of the previously mentioned pattern variants to provide an endless array of possible offspring morphs. The eyes of the Pictus gecko are lidless and require regular cleaning with the gecko’s tongue. They also have under-developed clinging lamellae (pads) on their toes that allow the juveniles and babies to cling to smooth surfaces. These pads are generally not strong enough to hold an adult, but lids on their enclosures are highly recommended. Pictus can reach lengths of up 8 inches in rare cases, but they more commonly attain a length of 5-6 inches. These geckos tend to be a bit “flighty” in nature, but can calm down and be tamed with regular handling.
HOUSING~
Pictus geckos have proven to be one of the easiest/least demanding species to keep in captivity. They require little space so a plastic shoebox for a single gecko is adequate. Larger enclosures help ensure the animals health and happiness when pairs are kept together. In general, Pictus seem to fair well singly or in pairs. They do not seem to appreciate or benefit from being kept in trios or colonies. Being nocturnal, Pictus geckos do require several hiding places on both the cool and warm side of their environments. A substrate of sterilized play sand works just fine for juvenile to adult Pictus. Hatchlings and babies are best kept on paper towels or fine Calcium Carbonate sand until they are well established. Some landscaping of the cage helps to give the geckos an enriched environment for exploration and hunting. Several rough sided rocks or cholla pieces are wonderful additions as they give the gecko a place to rub against when shedding. Being from the arid desert region, Pictus geckos do not require high humidity. A daily misting of one end of their enclosure is helpful in meeting the Pictus’ water requirements. A small water bowl with pebbles in it ensures the Pictus will be able to intake the water they need. Spot cleaning should be done daily and is especially easy as most Pictus develop a favorite spot in their cage to defecate. The water bowl with stones should be cleaned and rinsed every 1-2 days.
HEATING & LIGHTING~
Perhaps the most important requirement for keeping Pictus geckos is providing a temperature gradient. This is easiest to attain with an under tank heat pad (glass cage) or heat tape (plastic cage) on one end of the enclosure. The temperature on the warm side should be 85-90 degrees with an ambient temperature of about 78-80 degrees and the cool side being room temperature. An additional heat source can be provided on the warm side during the day by using a low wattage red light. This light can be turned off at night to facilitate a temperature drop along with normally falling room temperature. It is not necessary to turn off the UTH. However, many keepers recommend turning off the UTH and observation/basking light from December through January to simulate the gecko’s natural cool down period. Being nocturnal, Pictus geckos do not require any UV lighting. They are most active at dusk and through the evening, so a red bulb is often nice to have for observation purposes after “lights out” as they don’t register the red light and are more active. After "observation time” the red light should be turned off for the evening. A standard timer unit is a nice addition to automate shut off.
FEEDING~
Pictus geckos are insectivores and gut loaded, calcium dusted crickets should make up the bulk of their diet. Adults should be fed several crickets (1/2” to adult size) 3 to 4 times weekly. Evening feeding of adults is recommended as they are most active and prefer to hunt at night. Babies should be fed fruit flies or crickets (pinhead to 1/4”) daily. They do LOVE waxworms, but these should be fed sparingly due to their high fat content…primarily as treats once a week or as a boost to females after they have laid a clutch of eggs. Many will eat mealworms, but care should be taken that any mealworms offered are small in size. These should also be fed sparingly due to their harder to digest exoskeleton. Recommended supplements are: Rep-Cal with D3, Rep-Cal Herptivite, and Miner-All.
BREEDING~
Pictus geckos can be quite prolific if kept in a healthy environment and fed properly. It is fairly easy to sex adult Pictus as the males have fairly prominent hemipenal bulges at the base of their tails. Females lack these bulges, but if they are overweight can develop what appears to be hemipenal bulges, but these are actually fat deposits. It is rather difficult to predict the sex on hatchlings and juveniles with certainty due to their small size. Males also tend to be larger in overall size than females. In general, males can be bred at a younger age (10-12 months). Whereas females should be older (15-18 months) and in optimal condition. Many believe that a winter cool down period is required to aid in the breeding process. At the very least, females should be separated from males for several months to allow them to rest and rejuvenate. Each female can lay a clutch of 1-2 eggs every 2-3 weeks when in a breeding period. This high rate of egg production can be very demanding on their calcium reserves, so in addition to dusting their food with calcium supplement, many keepers also keep a bowl of calcium powder available in the enclosure. The females will actually lap up the powdered supplement from time to time as their bodies need it. The eggs will usually be buried in the sand (or hide box if provided) in the middle zone or cool zone of their enclosure. The eggs should be dug up as soon as they have dried and hardened a bit and placed in a controllable incubator. The eggs should be incubated at roughly 82-84 degrees and 50-60 percent humidity on dry sand. Hatching can take place from 40 to 70 days after being laid. Hatchlings and babies seem to benefit from being kept in small groups until they are established and begin to grow. At that point (approximately 1 month of age), the babies should be separated and kept singly. There is no evidence supporting sex of the hatchlings being related to incubation temperatures for Pictus geckos. |
VEILED CHAMELEON (Chamaeleo calyptratus)
This Care Sheet written by Barry Schneider for ACME CRITTERS
~ all rights reserved ~
GENERAL~
The Veiled chameleon is a hardy species native to the Arabian Peninsula, Yemen, and Saudi Arabia. They naturally live in the thickly vegetated areas surrounding rivers and streams. If cared for under optimal conditions, males can live up to ten years. Females tend to have shorter life spans - usually 3 to 5 years, especially if bred. Male Veileds are more colorful and patterned than females, but also tend to be a bit “feistier”. These chameleons are among the larger that are readily available with a male often reaching a maximum size of 18” and females tending to reach sizes of 10-12”. Veiled chameleons are not "pets" in the traditional sense. They do not like being handled frequently or played with. In fact these activities, if taken to extremes, can stress the animal severely. If however, you do desire an animal that is beautiful, interesting, and a challenge to care for, a Veiled chameleon is a good choice! The successful captive care of Veiled chameleons encompasses several different areas of concern including, housing, heating, lighting and diet.
HOUSING~
Veiled chameleons have proven to be one of the easiest/least demanding species to keep in captivity. They are however solitary creatures that must be housed separately as juveniles and adults. Stress is caused by even visual proximity to other chameleons (especially among males). Screen enclosures are HIGHLY recommended for successful captive care of these chameleons. Mesh can be used, but you won’t be able to see them as well, and they also tend to get their nails caught more frequently in the mesh as opposed to screen – their nails should NEVER be clipped! Another downside to mesh is that crickets can eat holes through it! A 50-60% level of humidity is required, but it is also important that the cage has cross ventilation and dries out between daily mistings -- air flow is extremely important to minimize bacterial growth. Cage sizing is also another extremely important consideration. General recommendations are:
Hatchlings and babies (under 4 months): 10 gallon aquarium with screen top or comparable Kritter Keeper
Babies & Juveniles (4-12 months): 24"L x 12"D x 24"H
Adult females (over 1 year): 24"L x 16"D x 30"H
Adult males (over 1 year): 30"L x 18"D x 36"H
The cage should be accessorized with safe plants and diameter appropriate branches for climbing. Branches can include bamboo, grapevine, and commercially made climbing vines. Silk plants are fine, but some safe live plants should be included as well, because Veileds do eat the leaves from time to time. Care should be taken to thoroughly rinse (many times) any live plants to remove possible pesticides before placing them in the cage. Ficus and Pothos are popular live plants to use for Veileds. Live plants also help to keep the humidity level up between mistings…mistings should be thorough and done both in the morning and again several hours before the lights go off for the night. In addition to raising the humidity, the mistings will provide the chameleon with drinking water as Veileds will not drink from a bowl. A timer on the lights is most helpful in keeping light cycles consistent. Misting systems/cage top drippers can make things easier also. Cages should be spot cleaned daily with a thorough cleaning weekly being ideal. No substrate is recommended and would actually be a hindrance to cleaning and minimizing bacteria. River rocks, pebbles, or orchid bark is often added to cover the dirt in the potted live plants…this deters the chameleons from digging in the dirt and making a huge mess!
HEATING & LIGHTING~
Perhaps the most important requirement for keeping Veiled chameleons is providing a temperature gradient. This is easiest to attain with a reflector and heat lamp (ZooMed Basking Spot, 75 watt) on one end of the enclosure. Take care to place a branch under the basking light that is not closer than 6-8 from the screen top—thermal burns (especially of the casque on the top of the head) are possible if the chameleon can get too close to the heat source. The temperature on the warm side should provide a basking temperature of 90-105 degrees with an ambient cage temperature of about 80-90 degrees. With no lights on at night, the ambient cage temperature should be 70-75 degrees. Also essential is a UVB light (Reptisun 5.0) which provides full spectrum lighting and facilitates calcium absorption and prevents bone disease/malformation.
FEEDING~
Veiled chameleons are primarily insectivores and gut loaded crickets should make up the bulk of their diet. Some vegetable matter (their live plants) is eaten from time to time. Adults should be fed 8-10 crickets daily (3/4” to adult size). Morning feeding of adults and Juveniles is recommended as Veiled chameleons are diurnal. Babies should be fed fruit flies or crickets (pinhead to 1/8”) several times daily. Juveniles should be fed 8-10 crickets daily (3/8” to ½”). Adults and juveniles do LOVE waxworms, but these should be fed sparingly due to their high fat content…primarily as treats once a week, or as a boost to females after they have laid a clutch of eggs. Superworms are especially relished by adults, but care should be taken that they are not offered too often, as the chameleon could go on a hunger strike for them and refuse the gut loaded crickets. Various species of gut loaded roaches are also very well received by Veiled chameleons. Recommended supplements are: Rep-Cal with D3 (DAILY), Rep-Cal Herptivite, and Miner-All (2X per WEEK) A food dish can be provided for when insects are placed in the cage…usually though the chameleon will wait and hunt down the prey throughout the cage which is always fun to watch!
BREEDING~
Veiled chameleons can be quite prolific if kept in a healthy environment and fed properly. It is easy to sex Veileds even at a young age, as the males have a small spur on the ankle of their hind legs between the two sets of fused toes. Although they can reach sexual maturity earlier, it is not recommended that you breed Veiled chameleons before they are at least a year old. The female is placed in the male’s cage to breed and the actual mating is rather violent with several sessions throughout the day. When the female is gravid, she will rebuke the male’s advances and also turn a shocking deep black-brown with bright yellow-green spots. When gravid, the female will grow in size becoming quite enlarged for about a month. She will often quit eating for a week or so before actually laying eggs. She will start pacing her cage floor when nearing laying time and should be put in a container with 8-12 inches of damp play sand in the bottom. Eventually, she will dig a deep tunnel, deposit the eggs, and bury them. After laying, the female will be very exhausted and should be returned to her cage for a good misting, heat and rest. She should be fed heavier than normal for the next several weeks to help her regain her weight, strength and calcium. It is reported that some females can lay upwards of 200 eggs per clutch with a second fertile clutch following in a month or two on “reserved sperm”. Average clutches seem to be in to 50-60 egg range. The eggs can be incubated on a variety of mediums in the dark at 86 to 88 degrees with a 5 to 10 degree temp drop at night. Actual incubation times can range from 6-11 months!
REFERRALS~
This care sheet represents BASIC information only. I can only hope someday to have acquired the level of knowledge of several others in the “Chameleon community”. Their websites are wonderful sources of info and are presented with their permission for my referral. I heartily recommend that you check out the following websites for in- depth information…they are also great sources for caging, supplies, and of course…CHAMELEONS!
www.chameleonsonly.com Ed and Libby Kammer - Carona,California
www.bluebeastreptile.com Tyler Stewart - Las Vegas, Nevada |
RUBBER BOA (Charina bottae)
This Care Sheet written by Barry Schneider for ACME CRITTERS
~ all rights reserved ~
GENERAL~
The Rubber boa is a rather under-appreciated member of the boa family. They have blunt heads with small eyes and a blunt tail with fused bones that is quite strong and used defensively to ward off predators. Perhaps their most unique feature is their skin which is cool and silky to the touch and scalation which is very small and tight. Their skin is also very “loose” which gives them a “rubbery” appearance especially when coiled in a ball—it has a tendency to create “folds” that are most unique. Depending on the locale they come from, their sizes will vary slightly. However the average seems to be males maturing to a length of 20” to 21” and females 22” to 26”. Longevity reports are varied but 20 to 30 years does not seem uncommon if properly kept and cared for. Rubber boas can be found from as far south as the San Bernardino and San Jacinto Mountains to the east of Los Angeles, northward in a nearly continuous distribution to British Columbia, and eastward through Idaho, northern Nevada, Utah, central Montana, and western Wyoming. There are color differences (olive green to dark brown) depending on locale, but few breeders are selective breeding by locale like they do for Rosy boas. In fact it’s rather difficult to pin down the locales for most Rubber boas now being offered as captive bred specimens. As far as their temperament, Rubber boas are incredibly docile snakes that are ideal for handling by children and those trying to overcome a fear of snakes. Unlike many other snakes, they never use striking as a defense mechanism. However, if handled too roughly, they will musk the holder (excrete a very smelly substance from their vent), but absolutely will not strike in defense. Upon being picked up, a Rubber boa will gently wrap around the holder's finger or wrist for upwards of an hour or more enjoying the warmth from the holder’s body before seeking to crawl around. Even when warm and active, Rubber boas rarely move swiftly.
HOUSING~
As Rubber boas are relatively small, large cages are not necessary. A five or ten gallon aquarium or large Kritter Keeper with a very secure screen lid is generally adequate for a single snake. These snakes are excellent escape artists, so the cage must be secure! Multiple Rubber boas may be kept together in a larger cage without any difficulties. A 20 gallon long aquarium can house up to 6 adults with no problems, but sometimes the snakes are better off separated at feeding time to prevent multiple snakes from attempting to eat the same prey. As long as all individuals are healthy and sanitary conditions are maintained, no ill effects occur. In fact, they often ball up all together as they would do when brumating in the wild. Aspen shavings seem to be the most suitable substrate for Rubber boas. They do like to burrow and aspen holds tunnels quite well. Sand, artificial turf, sterile soil, and paper are suitable alternatives. A choice of hiding places should be provided and Rubber boas enjoy pieces of bark, moss, and hollowed logs. Whatever is used for hiding spots, it is preferable that they are snug. A slight squeeze is generally preferred to large cavernous spaces. A piece of driftwood or section of branch is often appreciated as these snakes do like to climb occasionally. Clean water should be provided in a dish at all times. Rubber Boas often enjoy soaking so the dish should be shallow, but large enough for them to get completely into. The water should be changed often to avoid ingestion of fecal matter. Manual soaking in a covered container of water may be necessary from time to time if the snake seems dehydrated…skin condition is the best indicator of this procedure being necessary.
HEATING & LIGHTING~
If any one aspect of the keeping of Rubber boas must be stressed, it is that they must not be kept too warm. Rubber boas do not require the warm conditions that many other snakes do. Room temperatures are generally adequate with cage temperatures in the low 70's to low 80's. If room temperatures are not too cool, no additional heat source is needed. Individuals can digest meals at temperatures as low as 60 degrees (not recommended), with closer to 80 degrees being optimal. When digesting a meal or carrying young, a low wattage light bulb, or undertank heater may be provided to create a heat gradient within the cage so the snake can choose the proper temp to bask in. Use a thermometer in the cage to be sure the temperature does not get above the high 70's to mid 80's. If kept too warm they may become agitated and musk when you try to pick them up, and will be at risk for dehydration and excessive weight loss. It may seem strange to those that are used to keeping tropical snakes, but a Rubber boa should feel cool to the touch (but not cold) when picked up. Technically, Rubber boas are nocturnal so require no full spectrum lighting. They will often burrow under substrate or in a hide during the day. However, if provided with indirect natural sunlight or regular fluorescent lighting during the day, captive Rubber boas can often become quite active during the day and are rather pleasant to watch as they explore their environment. They are very observant snakes that appear to take interest in what’s going on around them. They are also rather interactive with each other if kept in pairs or groups.
FEEDING~
Rubber boas are also rather unique in their feeding habits compared to other snakes. New owners are often prone to panic if a month or two goes by and the Rubber boa has not eaten…this is NOT unusual and no cause for alarm. As they live at cooler temperatures, their metabolisms are MUCH slower than other snakes and they require food far less often. Captive bred specimens are usually fine with frozen/thawed mice of appropriate size. Hatchlings and babies often require some cajoling to get eating. Usually putting them in a deli cup with several F/T mice overnight will get them started. However, sometimes braining of the mice is necessary for the first few feedings. After reaching about a year of age, the Rubber boa is fine eating F/T mice that are left in its cage…it is sometimes helpful to partially bury the prey in the substrate. Again infrequent feeding is not necessarily cause for concern. Babies hatched in the Fall will often not have their first meal until Spring! Adults may go several months without eating. When they are ready to eat, they will usually gorge on 5-6 appropriately sized mice, then not eat again for a month or two. My method is to offer one mouse to babies every two weeks. If they eat, I offer another. With juveniles and adults, I offer one mouse every month. If they eat, I offer 4-5 more. The prey should not be left in the deli cup or cage longer than a day…if the snake hasn’t eaten, remove the prey and try again later.
BREEDING~
Brumation is not necessary except in preparation for breeding. Brumation should be started around late October or early November with temperatures ranging from 40 to 50 degrees until March. They generally do not have any problems as long as the temp remains above freezing. Rubber Boas have been found wandering their cage at temperatures as low as 40 degrees although usually dormant at this temp. Rubber boas usually breed every other year, but have been known to breed yearly on occasion. They bear live young normally in late August to September and clutches usually consist of 2 to 8 babies.
REFERRALS~
This care sheet represents basic information only. I can only hope someday to have acquired the level of knowledge of several others in the “Rubber boa community”. Their websites are wonderful sources of info. I heartily recommend that you check out the following websites for more in- depth information on these unique and wonderful snakes!
www.rubberboas.com - EXCELLENT site based on 40 years of work by Richard Hoyer
http://www.californiaherps.com/snakes/pages/c.bottae.html - locality information |